Waibakul, Anakalang and Surroundings

The only road from Lewa further west runs inland. The landscape is more and more gentle and increasingly green. Sometimes it goes through mountain areas, partly along river valleys. Finally, you will pass through the western part of Manupeu Tanah Daru (Tanadaru) National Park. Here are predominantly high dense deciduous forests. After about 35 km you reach the 400 meter high plain of the Anakalang district and the capital of the new district of Sumba Tengah, Waibakul. Actually it is not a real town - but they have already planted a few dozen ugly new administration buildings in the middle of rice fields.

In this district you find the largest megalithic tombs of Sumba. Starting point to visit this area is the impressive traditional village Pasunga, right across the junction to the south and the market. Who is in transit from Waingapu to Waikabubak, can leave the luggage in any warung at the market. The village of Pasunga has several huge megalithic tombs. The villagers are very accustomed to tourists.

If you follow the broad street to the south you reach the traditional village of Kabunduk (Kabonduk) after 1 km on the right side. In this village new and old is mixed. Here lives the chairman of Kabupaten Sumba Tengah. His home can easily be recognized by the carport in front of the traditional dwelling. From this village you can get - probably not without accompaniment - to the nearby historical Kampung Makatakeri and Lai Tarung. From these villages you have a spectacular view at the plain covered with rice fields.

Further south, along the rice fields, you come to Gallubakul after 2.5 km just off the road you'll find the biggest megalithic grave in Sumba (70 tons). Behind and diagonally opposite are 3 large traditional villages. If you want to see traditional houses with alang, instead corrugated iron roofs in the Anakalang area, you must go a few kilometres away from the main roads.

From this location a road leads to the south coast again. After about 30 km to the southeast, in the middle of Manupeu Tanah Daru (Tanadaru) National Park, you reach the bays and beaches Konda, Maloba and Aili. In older guidebooks this is named usually "Kondamaloba" - the new tourist name shall be "Tanahmas". The way to get there is through agricultural areas, cocoa plantations and then through hilly terrain overgrown with Alang grass. From the park entrance with a height of 650 meters begins the descent into these bays. Finally, the road splits. The road to the eastern bay Konda is dangerous steep, unpaved and eroded. Meanwhile you cannot go down with a motorbike any longer.  The bay is fairly dry and almost uninhabited. The beach is black and mostly sandy and shallow. The surf is steady but not dangerous. The beach is 5 km long with some impressive rock barriers in between. The road to the western bays Maloba and Aili is paved. The bays are tropical green and with a lot of flowers. The Sendi Praigaya River plain is overgrown with jungle. Many monkeys, birds, and butterflies live in it. Inland there is the small village Maloba. In the bay are 2 small rock islands. On the island close to the beach, women get buried on the island in the middle of the bay the men. The 2 km long Maloba beach has pleasant surf. The two smaller Aili beaches have no surf. From the second Aili beach you can cross the peninsula through the jungle and reach further open beaches, which are protected by reefs. All beaches are light yellow and fine sand.

You can also reach these bays with a hired boat. Fishermen from Waihura in Wanokaka go frequently here and back again for unloading their catch. Apart from that there are no other direct connections between Konda, Maloba, and Wanokaka.

From Gallubakul there is also a 9 km southwest road to Mata Yangu Waterfall. From Waikabubak to the waterfall it is 15 km towards Waibakul, then turn south at Dameka straight forward for about 10 km.

There is no entrance gate to the national park but some confusing signposts.  From there continue the road about 3 km more south. Somewhere at the way, on the left side there is another signpost. From there, you have to ask around. It goes cross country through Alang grass and jungle - 200 meters downhill – remember you'll have to climb up on your way back! The waterfall tumbles 100 meters down into a turquoise pool. Perfect after a long hike. Everything is beautifully green and many birds and butterflies buzz around you. From Mata Yangu to Lai Popu waterfall downstream it is 1.5 km jungle and another 100 meters downhill. The 2 tracks are almost invisible, it is slippery in the jungle, and often the way is blocked by fallen rocks and tree trunks. Without a guide, good condition, sturdy shoes, and plenty of water these tours are not feasible. Further down I describe an easier tour.

When you turn left at the confusing park entrance signposts, you come via an eroded side road to Hupumada (Hupamada) on the east side of the river delta of Wanokaka. 3 km on that road you come to a piece of jungle, which is frequently visited by birdwatchers. 2 km further there is a school.

The first way to the south is in the further course unpaved and dangerous steep. It goes down to the south coast. If you keep east at the branch you come to the traditional village and further on the beach of Tangairi. If you go straight ahead, the road ends 1 km from the sea. The path down is worthwhile because of the great coastal panorama. And here resides a very old fisherman who is thrilled when he gets visitors and someone brings him a few cigarettes. If you turn 2 times to the west you come to Lailiang beach and ultimately also to the east side of the river delta of Wanokaka.

The second way to the south leads to the widely extended traditional village Lahona. It is deeply embedded in the jungle. Around it are many rice terraces.

Between the two ways are 3 traditional houses in a northerly direction. This is the starting point for another path to the waterfall Mata Yangu. Going in line of the 3 houses for a few hundred meters through alang grass you get into the jungle. If there is a signpost and steps worked into the soil, one is right way. In total it is 3 km and 220 meters down to the waterfall. From this side, it is not possible to reach the waterfall Lai Popu. But this is not really important because Mata Yangu is anyway more impressive.


it goes on to ...

The Northeast of Sumba
Waingapu and Surroundings
The Southeast of Sumba
The South of Sumba
Waibakul, Anakalang and Surroundings
Waikabubak and Surroundings
The Southwest of Sumba
Waitabula, Tambolaka and Surroundings
The Northwest of Sumba