Banks and Money

ATM machines are now also available in Sumba. With an ATM debit or credit card, you could get cash 24 hours a day in almost all major towns. But be careful with BRI and NTT banks. Mostly you get nothing. Sometimes the card is blocked after an attempted transaction from Visa or Master Card.

For those who want to be on the safe side, the offer is limited to BNI and Mandiri banks in the following cities: Waingapu, Waikabubak and Waitabula.

Basically, when traveling to Indonesia, you should let your credit card company know that you are going there. Some companies are very sensitive about that.

It is important to change bills into small denominations before leaving one of the bigger towns as there is little or no change in the villages.

Electricity and Sunday Rest

In Sumba, the day begins with sunrise after 6 o’clock; this is due to the time zones that are more aligned with the central region of Indonesia. After sunset, about 17 o’clock, one can only hope that there is enough fuel for generators and people use electricity sparingly. In the evening you should always carry a flashlight. After 10pm the day is over.

Because of the widespread introduction of solar power lights, generators are put on less often in rural areas. In order to be able to charge a mobile-phone, you now absolutely need a USB plug. These plugs fit into solar installations.

On Sunday, more than a quarter of the population of Sumba is in church, shops and bottle-gas stations are closed, and you get nothing.

Phone, Internet and Mail

In addition to the Indonesian calling code +62 the code for landlines is 0387. So, the total code is +62387. However, the landline only works in the cities, if at all.

The Simpati or Kartu-As card in the version "Area Bali Nusra" is the only mobile-phone network that has a relatively good coverage in Sumba. All other networks do not work. In rural areas, in the mountains, and especially in the south also the Kartu-As fails. In such cases you should simply ask locals for a "pohon telekomunikasi or tempat telekomunikasi"

Larger amounts of data, such as maps, should be downloaded before traveling to Sumba as a precaution.

Gradually (solar-powered) radio masts of the very latest technology are being built. As a result, communication with older devices no longer works at all.

The best way of communication is therefore via WhatsApp or corresponding providers. Just write a message and wait to see if you or the other person has reception and answers. For international calls, you should only use this route for cost reasons anyway. On this website I write “WhatsApp” for mobile phone numbers if it is available, otherwise phone and “(no WhatsApp)” if it is not available.

In Waingapu there is a public WiFi place near the old harbour at the Telekomunikasi office. In Waikabubak there is a public WiFi place at the phone pole.Things are changing rapidly. In hotels and restaurants, there might be already WiFi. Please look at yourself, where you get "WiFi Koneksi".

When topping up the mobile-phone cards, you have to be careful what you need: Pulsa HP is for normal telephony. This is what you need if you want to call someone with a landline or simple mobile-phone. A small amount is actually enough. Quota HP are data volumes and you need a lot of them for smartphones. By the way, Pulsa Listrik is for electricity, you probably don't need that...

Letters I sent from Sumba to Germany always arrived - vice versa not always. A registered letter raises the chance of arriving. If you want to write to people in the country, you should ask for an address in town as there is no reliable postal delivery available in the country. When you see many people waiting in the Kantor Pos, it is probably due to salary and pension payday, and then you should just come back next day.

Insects and Illnesses

You get Malaria every few years – that is what I've often heard in Sumba. CRM and DTG recommend permanent malaria medication.

Malarone or Atovaquon are the standard medication. It is reimbursed by some health insurance companies (in Germany). In some countries cheaper competing products with the same ingredients are available such as Malaprotec. On the Internet and in Asia Malarone is offered but it is often faked. If you take Malarone over an extended period, it may reduce the number of red blood cells, other side effects are described in the instructions ... You should never take Malarone for more than 4 weeks.

The cheaper alternative is Doxycyclin. This drug may have the unfortunate side effect that you become sensitive to sunlight. If you take it for many months, it has no therapeutic effect.

Shamans and development workers in Sumba swear on Sambiloto (Latin: Andrographis Paniculata) a medicinal herb that is also applied clinically.

In PUSKESMAS health centers in Sumba malaria can be diagnosed quickly. They treat it with a Sambiloto-like Chinese medicine.

My recommendation for longer stays: take malaria rapid tests with you, they are reliable. They are offered, for example, under the name Accu-Tell- or BinaxNOW-Malaria rapid test. If you want to be sure, take Doxycyclin permanently if you can stand it and Malarone or Atovaquon for emergency cases.

Malaria vaccinations are in the testing phase. However, they are currently only recommended for long-term exposures and only in cases of high risk.

However a considerably higher risk than getting infected with malaria is

Dengue Fever: Especially in Bali and now also in Sumba is a drastic increase of the diseases to be recorded. The “Asian tiger mosquito” can transmit this disease (and others). They are 3-10mm in size. The body and legs of this mosquito are black and white striped. They prefer puddles of water in plastic waste, car tires and dumps. You can recognize the mosquitoes by their exceptional size and black and white striped body and legs. Dengue fever mostly it occurs as an epidemic around monsoon time, especially in the southwest. At 95%, the disease process is similar to influenza. At 5%, there is a critical clinical disease process, and untreated it can lead to death. A secondary infection leads to considerably more critical courses. There are 4 variants of the dengue fever, each leads to immunity against the respective pathogen. As a precaution, foreigners are often sent for treatment to Bali.

You can detect dengue fever with a simple self-test: constrict your upper arm for 5 minutes, then open and look in the elbow - if red spots appear, it is 90% dengue (From: Stefan Loose Travel Guide).

While the malaria mosquitoes bite only at night, dengue mosquitoes bite around the clock. You have mosquitoes not only during monsoon season, but also in dry season especially near mangrove areas, stagnant water, trash, and irrigation systems. You should not only rely on the efficacy of drugs, but first above all, spray with a mosquito repellent. Antibrumm-Forte and Nobite were the best in test.

In open accommodation you must sleep with a mosquito net. Don't just bring the net, but also enough rope to fix it somewhere.

The first vaccines against dengue fever have been available since 2023. There is still no absolute clarity about the effectiveness of such vaccinations. The protection is well below 100%. Therefore, not every health insurance company currently covers the costs of a vaccination.

Rabies has been increasing lately. Deaths in Bali, Lombok and Flores were reported. A vaccine is expensive but useful, because the disease leads to death.

Head lice are everywhere in the country. However, not every woman who dealt with the hair of another does it because of head lice. Mostly she is only plucking grey hair. At night a silk sleeping bag with a cover around the pillow provides protection against head lice.

Sand fleas are annoying especially at beaches, near brackish water, and river mouths.

Leeches are common in wet jungle areas in Sumba. They fall off as soon as they get in contact with some mosquito spray which they do not like.


Those who travel in such a remote area must be aware that there may be little help in emergencies. You have to take care of yourself.

When you see locals sitting on roofs of buses without being able to hold tight, you have to realize that we "Orang Bule" apparently do have a different understanding of security. From this aspect, questions according safety purposes have to be put into perspective.

A well-stocked first aid kit is needed which contains everything that you cannot get in Sumba. These include: antibiotics for acute cases, antibiotic cream in case of skin injuries, healing and iodine ointment, gastrointestinal agents, malaria rapid test (if gettable), anti-malaria pills, anti-eye-irritations, mosquito repellent, painkillers (! No Aspirin), tape for tying, waterproof plaster, lice comb...

For personal safety and if you track through the country alone, you should note the following:

Dogs are kept in every household in the villages. There are also many stray dogs. They could all be infected with rabies. If you are hiking from village to village you should definitely equip yourself with a stick to drive away their calf bites. It also often helps to pretend to pick up a stone and throw it at the attacker.

Wild Boars are in mountains and forests in the south. Therefore make frequent stops and look for droppings and trampled ground.

Snakes are rarer than elsewhere in Southeast Asia. By the way, they live not only on the ground. They usually flee if they sense steps in their habitat. The green snakes are deadly poisonous. In the dry areas there are pythons, but they are not so big, that they are dangerous for adults.

Crocodiles are often found as sculptures on megalithic tombs. So they do exist! They live in freshwater wetlands and especially in non-fast flowing rivers mostly in estuaries. Hence the name Buaya Muara = River Mouth Crocodile. Looking for food they often go into salt water mainly at dusk. They have a strong territorial behaviour and defend it aggressively. According to the Marapu belief, the crocodile may also have the spirit of a deceased person. In this respect, crocodiles must not be killed. In the past, Sumbanese fed the lead animal of a crocodile family with pets to encourage friendly behaviour of the spirits towards humans.

The media report a significant increase of crocodile accidents, complemented by drastic images. Experts report both, an increase of specimens and a migration of saltwater crocodiles (Crocodylus porosus) from the area of Timor and Australia. From the danger and size, Australian saltwater crocodiles do not differ from estuarial crocodiles. Due to this aspect, the discussion whether Australian saltwater crocodiles have immigrated to East Indonesia or not is irrelevant in terms of danger. A clear warning signal that the species was multiplying occurred in August 2023. For the first time, a saltwater crocodile has appeared on Kuta Beach in Bali!

As a lay person, I can only refer to appropriate media without being able to assess the extent of the dangers. If you have any concerns, please do research yourself on the Internet under the keyword "Buaya Sumba". I have included relevant information about dangerous areas in the text on the website. Accidents about I heard, happened especially when someone has invaded the habitat of crocodiles. The most recent reports of accidents were related to people who were fishing, doing seaweed cultivation, harvesting water spinach, and washing at the riverside. However, you should not swim near estuaries and mangrove areas and cross rivers only in a clear place. Ask locals if the area is safe before venturing into the water, especially in the evening!

Here is a list of the places mentioned on the Internet where crocodiles have been spotted (clockwise): Danau Waimulang, Sungai Kadahang, Lambanapu, Manangamihi, Pantai Londalima, Kamalaputi, Kambera, Pantai Padadita, Batu Payung, Kelurahan Wangga, Pantai Walakiri, Desa Kiritana, Dusun Lai Hiding, Sungai Wera, Desa Kayuri, Desa Palanggay, Tanjung Undu, Mburukulu, Desa Kaliuda, Pantai Benda, Sungai Lumbung, Sungai Kamaru, Desa Lainjanji, Pantai Hairuaka, Pantai Watu Parunu, Ngedo, Desa Katewel, Pantai Kita, Sungai Wandewa, Sungai Mamboro, Pantai Manu Wolu.


I've heard nothing about crime against tourists. Tourists are rare and sometimes behave differently to what people of Sumba are used to. So, this is often a cause of misunderstanding. As a guest it is important to develop a sense of what you may do and may not do - especially concerning the Marapu faith.

Things which we bring with us, and which are known from advertising in television, surely arouse certain desires. Perhaps we should leave things with famous brand names at home. And as I described above the term property is sometimes defined differently than with us.

People in East Sumba say that there is much more crime in West Sumba. At least the tone among the people and with foreigners sounds less friendly, sometimes perhaps too direct, which is interpreted as aggressive. This is especially true for Kodi, the poorest district of the island. In Mandorak, Ratenggaro, Waijengo and Bwanna "unpleasant controversies" have been reported.

The village of Ratenggaro had been temporary closed for tourists. In August 2019 there was a stabbing with resulting in death.

Among themselves they are still very aggressive.

The age of head-hunting is over less than 100 years. As I said before, there are still ethnic clashes. People burn down houses of the neighbouring district, steal cattle and commit murder. On the personal level there are often motives like envy, jealousy, and pride.

An "accident" at a Tarik Batu ceremony in Pau in 1958, where about 50 people were killed, is still unclear.

Some people steal gold and valuables from funerary objects in megalithic tombs. Supposedly there are Balinese in Sumba who open graves with car jacks and winches. It is a rumour, that rich Balinese instigate people from Sumba to steal to order, mainly megalithic statues. (cf. theft because of bride price under Social Structures and chapter History).

Diving, Snorkelling, Surfing, Cycling

This website doesn't sort the world according to sports. Please check on your own websites. Nevertheless, here are some pointers:

Diving and Snorkelling: The only permanent dive center in Sumba is in the noble Nihiwatu resort. They dive at the south coast.  Sumba Diving has temporarily suspended its activities in North and East Sumba.
You can snorkel at different places: In the north and northwest of Sumba the underwater world is not really interesting.
Along the east coast, during calm weather and near beaches are many smaller snorkelling areas (Kambera, Nusa, Benda, Kalala, ...). Unfortunately, the increasing of seaweed cultivation makes the water dull and fishes move away.
In the south the waves are usually too high. However, if the sea is relatively quiet from November to April, the south coast is quite attractive. The marine population is not nearly as varied as in Alor, Flores, and Sulawesi but also different and very colourful.
You have to be aware of dangers of waves, currents and crocodiles - there is no speedboat that comes to help you.

Surfing: You have excellent websites describing the particular spots, better than I can and want. If there is no wave, appropriate accommodations are mostly empty.

Fishing: More and more Indonesians do "puncing" = fishing. Especially from Waingapu or the fishing villages in the East they rent boats for fishing. So just ask locals whether somebody takes you along.

Bicycle: ... is only possible with mountain bikes on side roads, some dare to undergo such Tortures. Indonesians are beginning to discover mountain biking as a sport.

Birdwatchers: ... will find interesting observation places also outside the known areas. In the main street of Waibakul (Jalan Raja Wairasa) there is an information center of "Burung Indonesia". You should definitely contact the newly formed “Matalawa” National Park Administration in Waingapu.

Cave Carvers: Anywhere in Sumba there are limestone caves. Most are unexplored. Only those which are easily accessible are used by locals. Near Lombu are caves where early humans lived. Caves near Kodi often contain drinking water. There are water-solar projects through which this water is conducted to villages.

Tour Provider and Nice People

My personal experience is that it does not depend on the name of an organization, with which you do a tour, but on the experience of your guide. Guides from Sumba know more than alleged professionals from the rest of Indonesia. Take your guides or your drivers in duty, say what you want to see, otherwise they show you what the mainstream tourist always gets to see. To accompany tourists is a job that brings a lot of money but also many opportunities for both sides.

On the internet there are increasingly offers for tours to Sumba. These are almost exclusively agencies from Bali who live on commissions but whose guides have no idea about Sumba. Just compare the texts of these offers. Maybe you even find a passage from this website.

Not everyone needs a guide. If you have informed yourself and only want to go to certain highlights, you actually only need a “silent” chauffeur. And you can get them everywhere.

What I'm listing here are people from Sumba who really know their stuff and can pass on their knowledge to you. In alphabetic order:

Anselmus (Japa Doda) lives in Waikabubak. He will competently guide you through West Sumba. Speaks English well. WhatsApp: 081337064256

Anto (Adryanto) Konda Tana works in Lewa and his second job is being a guide. He speaks English very well, is thoughtful and humorous. He knows Lewa, the south coast and East Sumba well. He has good contacts with the local authorities and the national park administration. WhatsApp: 085333428709; Email:

Bone Ngadu lives in Waingapu. He specializes exclusively in East Sumba. Contact is best via Philipus Renggi or Piter Rehi or directly by phone 081337075108 (no WhatsApp)

Dani (Daniel Ndamung) Landjamara lives in Waingapu. He specializes mainly in East Sumba and has been for 25 years. Many guests report positive things about him. The best way to contact him is by WhatsApp: 085253295655

Daisy ( Desiana) Andung, lives in Waikabubak, she knows her way around Sumba. She came highly recommended to me by guests as a dedicated tour guide. She is extremely friendly and reliable. She loves her island and wants to get her guests excited about it too. WatsApp: 081239666203; Email:

Heri Andri lives in Waingapu and is ranger for the western Part of Matalawa National Park (formerly: Manupeu Tanah Daru). Mainly he guides bird watching tours. He knows all kinds of birds from Sumba by the English name – otherwise Google can sometimes help with the language translator. The best way to contact Heri is via WhatsApp: 085253738456 if not write an Email to:

Hugo Dalupe runs the ticket office Bilbo Tour & Travel in Waitabula next to the 3-storey building at the branch to Kodi. He speaks good English and is very flexible in the tour design. WhatsApp: 081392655696; Email:; Web:

Jhon (Yohannes Lende Dangga) speaks good English and drives you around with his car anywhere, but preferably in West Sumba. He has a competent knowledge and responds flexible to the wishes of his guests. He has a flair for finding out where what is currently interesting. At the end of a tour, he offers a delicious Sumbanese menu at his home in Waitabula. WhatsApp: 081337479988; Email:

Philipus Renggi is the boss of Sumba Adventure Tours and Travel. He and his team drive you preferably with cars but also with motorcycles to all corners of the island. Not cheap but competent, helpful, and flexible. He is based in Tambolaka. Some of the guides mentioned herein work also for him. You can also rent motorcycles or cars from him. WhatsApp: 081337107845; Email: ; Web:, Facebook: Sumba-Adventure-Tours

Piter Rehi lives in Waingapu. He knows his way around Sumba very well. He is humorous, speaks good English and is open to many new things. He thought my idea of including trekking in his program to discover new things was great. The best way to reach him is by WhatsApp: 082341767949

Son (Yadison Deta) lives in Wee Rame in West Sumba. He speaks great English. With it you not only get to know the tourist highlights of the island. His in-depth background knowledge also gives you an insight into culture and social issues. WhatsApp: 085259965568; Email:; YouTube:

Sony Radjah and his big family lives in Melolo. He often takes tourists, speaks very good English and is well informed, especially about the Savu population in East Sumba. He is involved in social institutions and works for the weaver's cooperative in front of his house. If you want to live there, you should book well in advance. WhatsApp: 085239238950; Email: ; Web:

Timo (Timotheus) is the good spirit of Artha Hotel in Waikabubak. When he has time, he will competently lead you around the Waikabubak area. WhatsApp: 085253253980

Yuli (Yuliana Leda Tara) speaks English and French fluently. She leads you by car or maybe by motorcycle competently to every corner of the island and is super informed on all regional and socio-political subjects. She and her family live in the traditional Marapu village Tarung in Waikabubak. Her Village burned down in 2017 but has been completely rebuilt. You can stay with her or in other houses in the village. WhatsApp: 081337957670; Email: